As we walked through those halls last October, she nodded toward a seafood merchant at the end of a row. "I couldn't have survived without women like Mari Carmen. She saw me here every day when I was pregnant, with my belly out to here," said Freitas, gesturing in front of her. "She knew I was a single mom and that I was struggling to keep my restaurant afloat, so she'd sell me the most amazing fish at cost."